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Caring for Your Geraniums
As an expert
in geranium culture, Bob advises that you consult his detailed Care
Instructions to ensure optimum, long-term quality and plant health.
Your success with his products is very important to him. (You will
need Acrobat Reader to view this document. If you do not have Acrobat,
click
here.)
With proper
care, your Plantation Geraniums should provide months of enjoyment—and
many compliments from your friends, family, and neighbors.
Click
here to download and print the geranium Care Instructions.
402-466-3332
5201 Bluff Road
Toll Free 888-310-7187 Lincoln, NE 68514
E-mail: rfrye@plantationgeraniums.com
PLANTATION GERANIUMS
Thank
You For Your Purchase of Plantation Geraniums.
With proper
care, your Plantation Geraniums should provide months of enjoyment
and earn many compliments from family, friends, and neighbors.
WHEN
TO TAKE PLANTS
Proper Planting Time: This is when springtime night temperatures
reach a consistent 50º, which normally occurs about mid May,
or after. The development of our crop is continuously adjusted
and scheduled to coincide with the proper planting date. Reserving
your selections and waiting for the proper time will result in increased
performance all summer long. See section on Plantation Reservation
Program (page 4).
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IMMEDIATE
CARE
Don’t take plants until you can plant them immediately.
Plants in production pots don’t store well. With this being
said, if you must temporarily store them inside be sure to:
1. Provide the plants as much sunlight as possible.
2. Keep the root systems slightly on the dry side.
Even short-term storage of geraniums in garages, basements, or
other low light environments will rapidly result in flower bud abortion,
leaf yellowing, and general decline. See section on Bud Abortion
(page 3).
Did
You Know? Each of us define good light differently!
It’s rare that inside-home environments provide the necessary
light to prevent geranium bud abortion and plant decline. It’s
deceptive. Many who think they have good inside light do not. Measure
your best inside light. For light to be adequate, you need a consistent
4,000 foot candles or more, from a direct overhead source. Those
who feel they have great inside light usually have less than half
this amount. Now You Know.
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EXTENDED
CARE
Geranium performance is largely determined by 1) genetic adaptability
and 2) providing the key criteria for geranium culture.
Key Criteria For Proper Zonal Geranium Culture:
1) Proper Ingredients (potting soils, planter types, etc.)
2) Proper Planting Methods (cleanliness, depth, and timing)
3) Adequate Light: Full Sun (4-5 hours per day minimum)
4) Proper Day & Night Temperatures (min. 60º+ days; 50º+
nights)
5) Proper Drainage (very important to use correct potting mix)
6) Proper Watering
7) Proper Fertilization
8) Proper Plant Grooming
9) Pest and Weed Control The above criteria are all discussed in
the following sections.
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PROPER
INGREDIENTS
Use Proper Planters:
Clay, plastic or composite constructed planters are all acceptable
if they have: 1) adequate soil volume and 2) large drainage holes
in the bottom. Many composite planters are manufactured without
precut drainage holes. If a hole isn't precut, use a carpenter’s
hole-cutter, arbor and drill to install the necessary sized hole.
If you are using the proper potting-soil mix only one 1½”
hole is needed in the bottom-center of each planter. Small ¼”
- ½” holes should never be used because they plug. Don’t
use bottom-watering wick planters.
Use Proper
Potting Soils:
Buyer beware. There are a lot of inappropriate mixes out there.
We especially avoid Hyponex and Bacto potting soils. As purchased
over the counter, most require radical amendments. When considering
these necessary amendments, you’re far better served to use
what’s already formulated specifically for geraniums. Don’t
add heavy top soil or manure amendments to any mix for geraniums.
Did
You Know? Using the wrong potting mix is one of the most
serious, common mistakes. A cheap mix is just that. Potting mix
technology is now a developed science. Do not kid yourself into
thinking you can out do this technology. It will limit your success.
We’ve tested most of them. Always ask for Metro 510 as your
first choice in a superior geranium potting mix. Ask any customer
who uses it. Now You Know.
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PROPER
PLANTING METHODS
Clean Pots And Planters:
Never plant geraniums in used planters without first cleaning and
disinfecting them. Use new, clean potting soil. Dispose of the old
potting soil since it could harbor pathogens and over-wintered insects.
Disinfectant
Solution:
A good disinfectant solution for cleaning used planters can be made
by mixing nine parts water with one part Clorox. Scrub the
container well with this solution. Let set for 30 seconds and rinse
well with fresh water to remove any phytotoxic Clorox residue.
Use The 5-Step
Planting Method:
Don’t plant in “out-of-the-bag” dry potting mix.
1) Saturate the potting mix in the planter before planting.
2) Lightly firm the planting mix in planter.
3) Make your planting in saturated, firmed soil.
4) Water in again - making sure to run water thru the planter.
5) Check for free-flowing drainage.
Pot Removal
and Reservoir Space:
Remove the production pot and plant the entire root ball without
disturbing the root system. Allow a 2-3 inch planter lip as reservoir
space for watering. Yet more reservoir space will provide additional
wind protection during establishment and re-rooting. Water
in well upon the completion of planting to further firm your new
planting.
Planting
Depth:
Our geraniums are extremely well branched. Plant these geraniums
slightly deeper than they grow in their production pots. Planting
so bottom branches rest right on the soil surface will greatly add
to their stability in the wind and prevents “teetering”
prior to re-establishment. Additionally, anchor and feeder roots
will grow from the bottom of the branches where they touch the soil.
Timely Planting:
If you get plants before the proper planting time they will ‘stall’
or decline in condition. You’re far better served leaving your
reserved plants at the Plantation where significant development
will continue. See section on Proper Planting Time (this
page).
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LIGHT
& TEMPERATURES
Geraniums require 6-10 hours of full sunlight to maximize flowering.
With daytime temperatures in the mid 80ºs and lower, the full
duration of sunlight is optimum. With temperatures in the 90ºs
and above, mid and late afternoon sunlight should be sacrificed
to reduce heat stress. During extended periods of extremely hot
weather, many gardeners will move portable planters and pots to
locations which provide partial shade after 1:00 - 2:00 p.m. When
making beds, try to select areas which will provide partial shade
after 3:00 p.m. Mulching will help keep roots cooler and may aid
in weed control.
Did
You Know?
All root activity ceases below 50º. Nothing good can happen
when there’s no root activity. The Plant will start to decline.
Why in the world would anybody want to put a plant through this?
Do not take your geraniums too early! Now
You Know.
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PROPER
DRAINAGE
Planters:
The absence of free-flowing drainage is a formula for disaster.
Once planted and watered, make certain your planter is actually
“free draining”. If not, investigate the cause immediately.
If it’s too tightly “sealed” to the surface to allow
drainage, place at least three 1/8” spacers between the planter
and the surface it sets on.
Don’t
Use Rocks And Other Fillers In Your Planters:
With 1) proper potting soil and 2) proper drainage holes
- filler items merely rob rooting space required for maximum potential
in plant health, size, and bloom production. Don’t use screens,
or other devices, over drainage holes which eventually plug.
Did
You Know? The use of “fillers” is a technique
carried over from days of old - prior to current day potting-mix
technology. Do not use fillers! It just makes your planter and root
system smaller. The larger the root system - the better! Now
You Know.
In-Ground
Plantings:
It’s very important to check for good soil drainage when making
landscape plantings in the ground. In heavy soils, it is often advisable
to make a new bed in the ground by digging a deep, 12”-14”
circumference hole and filling it “level-full” with the
proper potting soil. Planting each plant in the center of this newly
reconstituted “pot-in-the-ground” will provide better
drainage for the core root system. This technique results in much
better summer performance.
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PROPER
WATERING
It’s always best to keep water off the flowers and the foliage
when watering. Longer bloom life and healthier plants will result
by making your point of irrigation near the base of the plant on
the soil surface.
Geraniums have
very thick leaves and won’t show the true signs of drought
stress as early as most other annuals. Geraniums with limp, dull
appearing leaves have become too dry, yet leaves may not have started
to wilt. Always water before leaves loose their shiny, turgid appearance.
It’s important
to emphasize that watering (in both cool or hot weather) is an all-or-none
proposition. Never partially water a geranium planter. Run the water
all the way through it each time you water, or don’t water
at all. The weather and temperatures will determine the frequency
of waterings - not the amount used.
Establish
Wet/Dry Cycles:
The establishment of frequent wet/dry cycles is one of the “tricks”
to exceptional geranium health and performance. The only way
this can be accomplished is by using the proper potting soil and
the establishment of very good drainage. These wet/dry cycles
are especially important during the cool, wet conditions of early
spring and late fall.
Watering
In The Cool of Spring and Fall:
Take care not to over water during periods which are cool and cloudy
(below 65º). Geraniums kept constantly wet under these conditions
are predisposed to root and stem rots, won’t flower as well,
and generally fail to thrive. If in doubt as “to-water”
or “not-to-water”, recognize it’s better to err on
“the-dry-side” during the cool of spring and fall.
Watering
In The Heat of Summer:
Geranium planters 1) in direct sun, 2) planted in our potting
mix, with 3) proper free-flowing bottom drainage - are nearly
impossible to over water when temperatures are above 90º. During
extreme heat (given the 3 previous qualifiers) always err on the
profusely wet side when making watering judgments. Likewise, most
hanging baskets can be watered to complete saturation twice a day.
When even warmer
(over 95º), some wise gardeners will profusely water just prior
to the heat of the day to pre-cool root systems. This also increases
moisture content in the leaves and blooms lowering their tendency
to burn in scorching heat.
Watering
In-Ground Plantings:
Geranium beds watered with an automatic lawn sprinkler system is
not recommended. Water requirements for lawns and geraniums seldom
coincide. When designing geranium beds, it’s best to dedicate
separate irrigation stations and use drippers at the base of the
plants to keep water off the foliage and blooms. Hand watering with
a hose, at the base of the plant, may be the next best alternative.
In general, gardeners (with in-ground plantings) rely too heavily
on soil moisture and should water more as though the plants were
in a planter.
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FERTILIZER
Geraniums are heavy feeders and require frequent fertilization with
the proper nutrient balance to maximize size, general plant health,
bloom counts, and over-all performance.
Free Fertilizer:
The Plantation will provide its customers free liquid fertilizer
if they bring us their clean liquid containers. Empty gallon
milk containers (with lids) often work best for this purpose. This
solution is offered in appreciation to our geranium customers (all
summer long) for use on Plantation plants only. Our fertilizer is
specifically formulated for proper geranium nutrition. Use our free
liquid fertilizer, undiluted, to completely replace a watering every
third or fourth irrigation. Always call to check our hours before
coming after fertilizer. Our off-season summer hours vary.
If it’s
inconvenient to pick up this solution, we have two alternative fertilizer
forms available for purchase at the Plantation.
Water Soluble
20-20-20
We sell water soluble 20-20-20 in two different size tubs. Each
has a measuring device which makes measuring and mixing fast and
easy. The 1½ lb. tub makes approximately 75 gallons of ready-to-use
solution. Respectively, the 3 lb. tub makes approximately 150 gallons.
Time Release Fertilizer Tablets: We also sell 6-month-time-released
fertilizer tablets, which are the latest in fertilizer technology.
Insert the appropriate number of tablets at least 3” below
the soil surface at planting time. Each time you water
Time Release
Fertilizer Tablets:
(continued) an appropriate release of fertilizer is automatic. Release
amounts are a function of moisture, temperature, and time. Release
amounts are higher in warm weather when plant requirements are highest.
We’ve been testing this product for over two years. We can
advise you of methods and amounts in different planting situations.
It’s a very good product you might consider using.
Did
You Know? Proper nutrition is one of the most overlooked
and under practiced things gardeners do. Why do they do that! They
would not think of missing a meal! Do not starve the geraniums!
Now You Know.
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PLANT
GROOMING
The removal of spent flowers and leaves is a major factor in keeping
geraniums healthy, productive and attractive. Removal of spent flowers
and leaves should be accomplished with a sanitary pinch or “snap”
of the entire leaf or flower stem. Remaining, nonfunctional stems
will decompose and expose the plant to infections and disease. Take
care not to scar or damage the main branch in this cleaning process.
Gardeners easily learn to “clean-snap” leaf and flower
stems “flush” with the main branch.
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PEST
CONTROL
Geraniums aren't generally an attractive host to many insects. The
most serious insect threat to geraniums is caused by bud worms.
Bud Worm
Control:
Bud worms are native to the southern tobacco-growing states. Thus,
the origin of its full name - tobacco bud worm. In June and July,
strong south winds can send the bud worm moth north. When the moth
arrives it seeks the most dense, full plants in which to lay its
eggs. These plants provide the most attractive environment for egg
laying because they provide the most shade and cooler conditions.
Approximately
7-10 days after egg laying, eggs hatch into larvae which do the
damage to geraniums. Primarily, they’ll target and eat the
centers out of unopened blooms. Several life cycles can occur each
summer. If you notice moth activity, consider turning off night
lights over or near your plants. This will decrease moth numbers
attracted to this area. Bud worms can survive and over-winter in
the Midwest during mild winters and in protected areas. Bud worms
can often over-winter in the previous season’s planters. Before
planting always empty and discard old potting soil. Clean planters
well before replanting. See section on Clean Pots & Planters
(page 1).
Telltale
Signs Of Geranium Bud Worm Damage Are:
- Small
bore holes in unopened buds
- Black
droppings on leaves
- Leaf feeding
Incomplete or general lack of bloom
First, become
aware of moth activity. Visual detection of the actual larvae itself
is often difficult and may be a bit late. If you feel your geraniums
harbor bud worms, it’s recommend you spray them with ORTHENE
(9.4% acephate active ingredient) The second best chemical of choice
is ISOTOX (8% acephate active ingredient)
Orthene Spray
Instructions:
- Mix 2 oz.
(56ml or 4 tablespoons) per gallon of water.
- Spray in
the cool of the day to avoid burn.
- Spray to
drip off, above, below, and in the interior of canopy.
- Spray 3 times
5 days apart, then watch for reoccurrence.
- Spraying
open blooms will scar them.
- Read and
heed the insecticide label.
- Accept no
substitutions to the above chemicals of choice.
Did
You Know?
In future years you’ll see bud worm resistance bred into geraniums
by the most conscientious, environmentally-responsible breeders.
This technology is here today. We impatiently wait for it to become
a genetic reality. When it does, you can be assured The Plantation
will be one of the very first to offer those varieties to its customers.
Now You Know.
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GERANIUM
DOCTOR
Bud Abortion:
(Brown Buds)
Geraniums held in low light environments for 24 - 36 hours will
begin to abort flower buds. This condition will later result in
dead, brown flower buds. If bud abortion does occur, remove the
aborted buds and provide the plant(s) a sunny location to insure
the most rapid recovery. Expect a flowering delay of 2- 4 weeks.
Did
You Know?
One of the most frequent mistakes made is the temporary storage
of geraniums in low light. This causes bud abortion quickly. It
results in brown buds which may not show up until much later. This
can leave you, or the recipient of your gift, wondering what happened.
Do not store geraniums in low light - even temporarily. Now
You Know.
Yellow Leaves:
Can be caused by one, or a combination, of the following:
- Plants being
overly wet (usually due to the lack of drainage).
- The
wrong potting soil.
- The lack
of quality light.
- Advanced
stages of nutrient deficiencies.
- Heat-induced
iron chlorosis during extreme, prolonged heat.
Brown Leaves:
Usually an indicator of high salts predisposed by drought conditions.
Stem and
Root Rots: (Black, Rotten Stems and Roots)
Almost always preceded by yellow leaves. Usually caused by prolonged
saturated conditions. This is often due to using the wrong potting
soil, further exacerbated by the lack of drainage. Late stages of
stem and root rots are irreversible and almost always result in
death.
Bloom Stall:
As some might say, “My geraniums took a rest.” Geraniums
don’t take a rest from blooming. Something has interfered with
their natural propensity to bloom continuously. Several factors
can cause flower stall. Sometimes flowering will be so profuse (25-30
blooms per plant) that blooms cover and shade the entire plant canopy.
As a result, insufficient light penetrates to the leaf canopy to
continue the new bud forming process. When blooms completely shade
the canopy, selectively remove 2 or 3 (in the top-center) so quality
light can penetrate. Other causes of bloom stall are:
- Leaving
old blooms on too long.
- Having planters
in low light, under overhangs, or in the shade.
- First stages
of extreme drought cause smaller than normal blooms.
- Subsequent
stages of drought cause complete absence of blooms.
- Overly wet
plants in marginal light.
- Root bound
plants will bloom better than those that aren't.
Partial Blooms:
Incomplete bloom development is usually the result of bud worm damage.
See section on Bud Worm Control (this page).
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PLANTATION
PRODUCTS
SPECIFIC RECOMMENDATIONS
PLANTATION
7” POTS
These pots contain one multi-branched geranium. Always repot these
plants to larger containers as soon as possible. Suggestions follow:
Single Plant
Planter:
1 plant in a 12” - 14” planter. Multi-Plant Planter:
2 plants in a 14” - 16” planter.
3 plants in a 16” - 18” planter.
4 - 5 plants in a 20”+ planter.
Window Boxes:
1 plant every 16-18 linear inches.
Landscape
Planting:
Allow 2 - 2 ½ square feet per plant.
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PLANTATION
HANGING BASKETS
These 12” baskets cannot be transplanted. They have
5 plants growing out side holes and 3 from the top. A 30” ball
of geraniums. These baskets should be grown in accordance to the
aforementioned zonal-geranium requirements. In addition, we recommend:
1. Water to
a saturated (drip-thru) weight of 17-18 pounds (each watering should
be slow to assure thorough saturation).
2. Water
again when the weight is 13-14 pounds.
3. Fertilize generously every second or third irrigation.
4. Remove spent blooms and spent leaves weekly.
5. Move to a cooler location when temperatures exceed 86º.
6. Customers have a tendency to over water in the cool of spring
and under water in the heat of summer.
7. Avoid hanging under overhangs.
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PLANTATION
JUMBO TRANSPLANTS
These 12” containers are grown on a hanger. They are specifically
designed and produced with the intent of being transplanted to a
18” or larger planter, not to hang as is. To transplant properly:
1. Ready the receiving planter by preparing a cavity slightly larger
and deeper than the Jumbo Transplant’s root ball.
2. Cut the wires just above the pot with wire cutters. Don’t
remove wires until all are cut. Dispose of all 4 sharp wires at
once.
3. At pot level, gently insert your hand into the center of the
Jumbo Transplant - laying it open (palm down) on the soil surface.
4. From shoulder height, slowly invert the Jumbo Transplant and
remove the pot from the root ball with your free hand. You may want
a helper for this step.
5. Slowly lower it next to the receiving planter and gently roll
the Jumbo Transplant’s root ball into the cavity made in step
1.
6. Back fill with additional potting soil if necessary and water
in profusely. Check planter for free-flowing drainage.
7. Clean all spent and dead leaves at the soil surface each week.
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PLANTATION
RESERVATION PROGRAM
We sell a large percentage of our crop each year during our Early
Reservation period. Customers reserve desired numbers of chosen
varieties and colors (not specific, individual plants) and return
to pick up their orders at the proper planting time. As reservation
orders come in we deduct them from production inventories. Many
varieties and product categories sell out before the proper planting
time arrives. We allow sample plants (of each variety) to bloom-up
for viewing as early as March 15.
The Reasons
To Reserve are twofold. 1) You get the specific colors and varieties
you want at 2) lower prices. Our prices incrementally go up through
the season as plants get larger. What you’ve ordered is protected
at your reservation price. The first of several incremental
price increases occurs on April 1 each year. We offer reservation
customers the above incentives because it allows us to better manage
our time and fixed inventories in a very compressed, seasonal business.
We absolutely guarantee your satisfaction. See our unconditional
guarantee on our order form.
If you choose
not to reserve - we still have plants at planting time but can’t
specifically predict which varieties and product forms will be available.
Usually, we over plant on reds and salmons. We usually sell out
completely by mid June - but it gets earlier each year.
Did
You Know? We advertise our geraniums In over a decade,
and thousands of customers, we’ve never been “called”
on this guarantee. Why do you suppose this is? We do not compromise
on quality - ever! Now You Know.
Quality Plants
Defined:
How do you know? What do you look for? Blooms are built into the
genetics. They are determinate and temporary to be replaced by new
blooms that are nearly identical each time. Once you’ve made
color selections, direct your attention to the plants themselves.
Noticing their health, structure, and surroundings is how you‘ll
predict quality. You know what healthy green leaves look like. Look
past the obvious. First and foremost, deal with professionals who
know their business. After you’ve established this, here’s
some things to look for:
- Latest, state-of-the-art,
improved genetics.
- Plants with
short internodes (distance between leaves on the stem).
- Profuse branching
(directly associated with flowering potential).
- Dense compact
plants you can’t see thru (a result of points above).
- Look for
overall uniform production within product types.
- Size: Larger
is usually better - given proper plant structures and if the size
meets your container and gardening requirements.
- Clean growing
environments and exceptional overall plant health.
- Good, clean,
profuse root systems are essential.
- Talk to customers
who have previously purchased the products.
Did
You Know?
There are two major types of geraniums. There are seed geraniums.
There are zonal/cutting geraniums. They are distinctly different!
I refer to seed geraniums as “junk geraniums”. refer to
zonal/cutting geraniums as “The Cadillac of Geraniums”.
Actually -they’re probably more like Ferraris and Lamborghinis.
Bigger, better, and nicer in every way. The zonal/cutting-geranium
type is where most breeders concentrate to improve the species.
There’s a big difference! We Do not raise anything but zonal/cutting
geraniums. Now You Know.
Value Defined:
Most gardeners purchase geraniums for the bloom and color they provide.
Therefore, one way to determine value is based on the cost per bloom.
A large, extremely-well-branched, $15.00 plant producing 150 blooms
in a season has a bloom cost of 10¢ per bloom. A $4.00 plant
producing 20 blooms has a bloom cost of 20¢. The larger, better
branched plant returns significantly more per dollar spent. Usually,
the best value is directly proportional to size and branching. It
depends on the original premise supporting the purchase. Is it for
bloom and color? We think it is, and produce geraniums accordingly.
Did
You Know? The most important part of our business is
YOU! Without YOU nothing would happen! Thanks for reading these
geranium care instructions. Your success with our products is very
important to us.
Bob Frye
- owner of The Plantation
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